August 16, 2016

Agi and Sam Fall 2016

Agi and Sam Fall 2016
Agi and Sam Fall 2016

There aren’t that many collections out there for men that make much sense. For the most part you get the same old sportswear that could be anybody’s or crazy stuff that’s more deconstructed judo outfit with too many loose ties dragging than fashion. Two extremes is what we have with precious little in that gaping middle, and I might add there’s a dearth of style in this roiling sea of fashion. That isn’t to say I don’t love some Ralph Lauren staples to keep my boat afloat. I’ve even been guilty of droopy drawers fantasies a la Rick Owens, but then the price tag snaps me out of my reverie. So Agi and Sam based in London are that rare duo who offer clothes that have their basis in the classics but tread the razor’s edge of the new.READ MORE >

August 15, 2016

Succumbing to Style

Saint James Meridien Moderne sailor shirts
Saint James Meridien Moderne sailor shirts

Each summer there are certain de rigeur items you see on people that play over and over and over. It’s the flipflop. The leggings. The off the shoulder come hither top on too many women. The white sneaker… If you walk around NYC enough you’ll catch most every trend there is. You can reject them all and go naked, or you can parse your way through and settle on what works for you. Just use a bit of imagination…READ MORE >

August 8, 2016

Calvin Klein Reboot

Calvin Klein in '94Designer burn-out and burn-up continues at a mad pace. The turn-over rate lately is almost as regular as the tides. Like a broken record version of musical chairs, they run and run and hope to find an empty spot to fill. Well, Raf Simons of Dior, Jil Sander and Raf Simons fame is the new man behind the wheel at Calvin Klein. He will be in charge of women’s, men’s, jeans, underwear, cosmetics, store design and advertising. In short, he’ll be the single vision for the whole company. This apparently is what he didn’t possess at Christian Dior which precipitated his departure last year.

Raf Simons
Raf Simons

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July 28, 2016

Hair of the Camel

Gucci Single Breasyed camel wool overcoat
Gucci Single Breasted camel wool overcoat

When someone tells you that you need to protect cashmere when you store it away for the summer, believe it. Moth holes always seemed to be the fantasy of some old wives-tale obsessed worry wart. Well, I found out the hard way that cashmere munching moths really do exist. Two seasons ago I got a beautiful camel cashmere topcoat in Europe. That beautiful coat got test driven twice before the winter ended. Without thinking, I hung it in the closet and forgot to put it in the sturdy garment bag it came with.READ MORE >

July 27, 2016

Michael Kors Spring 2017

Michael Kors Spr2017
Michael Kors Spring 2017

Michael Kors offers some great ideas for next spring and summer. His focus has always been great American sportswear and this season is no different. It’s his play on classics with unexpected color combinations and tweaked proportions that give it an assured and cool feel.READ MORE >

July 19, 2016

You say Pajama, I say Djellaba

Anton tuning in.
Anton tuning in

My first encounter with a djellaba was about 5 or 6 years ago at John Bartlett’s West Village store which no longer exists. That season he made these curious floor length djellabas in a linen/rayon fabric. It moved around the body like a cool breeze. The style was very much in the vein of Egyptian thobes or Dishdash. This fact would become clear a few years later when I made my first of 4 trips to Qatar where I lectured at the Fashion Design dept of a university there.READ MORE >

June 22, 2016

B/W Stripes

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Chiayun Hu

If there’s anything in my wardrobe I’m really passionate about it would be my collection of striped tee shirts and shirts. Its physically impossible for me to go by a pile of stripes in a store without adding to my stash, assuming they are graphically strong and the combination of colors are unusual.

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Raf Simons Spr2016
SA2
Steven Allen

Looking at old pictures from high school and my early years in NYC, stripes have been ubiquitous. Though it’s become instinctual for me to choose them with little thought, I realize stripes function as a dynamic foil to whatever I put on.READ MORE >