There’s a Peter Pan thing going on a with a huge swath of the fashion industry stuck in an adolescent rut. Just look at all the kittens, dogs and cartoon characters turning up on the clothes of grown men. On one hand, I find it silly and cloyingly provocative. But when the obvious is eschewed for a focus on shapes and proportions then the idea becomes interesting.READ MORE >
There aren’t that many collections out there for men that make much sense. For the most part you get the same old sportswear that could be anybody’s or crazy stuff that’s more deconstructed judo outfit with too many loose ties dragging than fashion. Two extremes is what we have with precious little in that gaping middle, and I might add there’s a dearth of style in this roiling sea of fashion. That isn’t to say I don’t love some Ralph Lauren staples to keep my boat afloat. I’ve even been guilty of droopy drawers fantasies a la Rick Owens, but then the price tag snaps me out of my reverie. So Agi and Sam based in London are that rare duo who offer clothes that have their basis in the classics but tread the razor’s edge of the new.READ MORE >
Each summer there are certain de rigeur items you see on people that play over and over and over. It’s the flipflop. The leggings. The off the shoulder come hither top on too many women. The white sneaker… If you walk around NYC enough you’ll catch most every trend there is. You can reject them all and go naked, or you can parse your way through and settle on what works for you. Just use a bit of imagination…READ MORE >
Designer burn-out and burn-up continues at a mad pace. The turn-over rate lately is almost as regular as the tides. Like a broken record version of musical chairs, they run and run and hope to find an empty spot to fill. Well, Raf Simons of Dior, Jil Sander and Raf Simons fame is the new man behind the wheel at Calvin Klein. He will be in charge of women’s, men’s, jeans, underwear, cosmetics, store design and advertising. In short, he’ll be the single vision for the whole company. This apparently is what he didn’t possess at Christian Dior which precipitated his departure last year.
When someone tells you that you need to protect cashmere when you store it away for the summer, believe it. Moth holes always seemed to be the fantasy of some old wives-tale obsessed worry wart. Well, I found out the hard way that cashmere munching moths really do exist. Two seasons ago I got a beautiful camel cashmere topcoat in Europe. That beautiful coat got test driven twice before the winter ended. Without thinking, I hung it in the closet and forgot to put it in the sturdy garment bag it came with.READ MORE >
One of the most useful jackets in my closet is my windbreaker. It was a gift and is made by Prada. This is one of the more perfectly conceived pieces as the fabric is cool, waterproof, sleek and very lightweight. It’s got a hood and is completely reversible.READ MORE >
My first encounter with a djellaba was about 5 or 6 years ago at John Bartlett’s West Village store which no longer exists. That season he made these curious floor length djellabas in a linen/rayon fabric. It moved around the body like a cool breeze. The style was very much in the vein of Egyptian thobes or Dishdash. This fact would become clear a few years later when I made my first of 4 trips to Qatar where I lectured at the Fashion Design dept of a university there.READ MORE >
There’s something about Chore jackets that have always captured my imagination. Kind of a common man’s uniform but always so personal to whomever is wearing it.READ MORE >